Thursday, May 30, 2013

A cry, a laugh and a whole lot of gratitude.

I thought I would write a reminiscent post about my year abroad...
(even though all my posts were basically reminiscent)

When I think back on a year ago when my Erasmus application was still under way I kept thinking about how this year was going to change my life, it was going to take me away from Belgium (a life-long dream), it was going to take me away from everything I knew and throw me into the lion's den with new people, new places, another level of independence and hopefully charge my battery that needed charging so badly.
I didn't have much love for Spain, I don't have much love for the Spanish language (italian is my true love but it's not where the money's at) so I thought Erasmus would just be a way to get better at my job.
Little did I know, Spain creeps up on you, in ways you least expect it.

My first semester in one word would be "hibernation", apart from the first 6 weeks when I was obsessively active, I didn't go out ever. They do warn about this initial Erasmus excitement wearing off after a while. The only thing I was really happy about was the place I lived in. For those few months, this was a real "home" to me. I felt really comfortable and I had wonderful housemates with whom I had great indoor time. Unfortunately, this comfortableness kept me from going out. I maybe attended two parties and it took a lot of energy to go to class. This Erasmus thing was getting to be quite a disappointment. I knew I had to break loose somehow.

After spending Christmas vacation in Belgium I decided to move apartments in Spain, luxury would have to give way to convenience and constructing a social life. And oh, am I glad I did!
Even though the apartment ended up not feeling like a home AT ALL, I am a five minute walk away from everything, the social life that I ended up "constructing" lives all around me and I felt a bit more challenged in this semester's classes.

Now I can't say I'm completely smitten with Spain (apart from Málaga, but paradise doesn't count in this equation), but from the first day I arrived here the Spanish people have proven to be so friendly and open. A nice change of scenery from the rather anti-social and grumpy Belgians. 
Even my local fruit vendor is cracking a smile once in a while. Spanish people are generally a happier people; they live under the sun all year, and when times get tough (oh boy do times get tough for these people :S) they find support in their large families and local community.

Despite the fact that Spain had one of the worst winters to date (the weather in Madrid really wasn't that different from Belgium), with the smallest hint of sunshine everybody comes out and socializes on the town square. It's a joy to go there and sit among them. This outdoor way of living typical of the Mediterranean is something I will definitely miss.
Alcala was special for many reasons. For one, the storks. With a permanent population of 180 storks the city is constantly shaded by their magnificent wings. 90 bird couples in everlasting love, a love that has clearly transferred onto the people, I've never seen so many couples in my life! Seriously though, try finding a guy who's single in this place.
Since Alcala is so small, so is the Erasmus community. Everybody knows everybody and their friend, which makes it a lot more personal, like one big family. When someone organizes a party, guaranteed all Erasmus show up and the neighbors will call the cops on us. But no way we're as loud as Spanish people. (That's just not physically possible.)
And Erasmus is kind of like "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", nobody at home will ever know the true details of our wild nights.

Because this is the birth town of Miguel Cervantes everything is in his name. Town festivals every other week, literary prices, royalty paying us a visit, you name it. I've never seen so much folklore in my life. And I don't have to tell you again how big of an impression Easter time had on me.

I will miss the international group of friends I made here. As much as you learn about the country you're in, you learn about every other country out there. Hungary, Turkey, France, Germany, Brazil, Slovenia, South Korea, Russia, Austria, and the list goes on. No school can teach you true "culture".
The friends you make on Erasmus can't compare to your usual clique. I have spent every waking hour with these people. Going for drinks or tapas almost every night, going on hikes and excursions, watching them go from sober to incredibly drunk with nothing in between. Aditionally, Erasmus is really like starting over, nobody judges you, and I've never felt more appreciated.





Every time I travel abroad it strikes me how limited Belgium is, it's like anything international is not allowed in the country. This year has really shown me how much I love globalization; finally having access to brands I've admired online for so long, eating foods from all over the world just a 5 minute walk away. Detox will be difficult... 'Cause we are living in a material world, and I am a material girl.

Not that it's really helping the Spanish economy, but leaving behind Sunday shopping will also be a challenge. Even Carrefour has special Sunday/holiday hours: from 10 to 10 instead of 9 to 10 on weekdays. You can imagine my horror and broken heart when Carrefour was actually closed one day (Labor Day)!

But there are a few things that I won't miss too much, not to say at all. For instance, tapas. Disgusting, low quality tapas. I do understand that there probably are establishments in Spain that do mediocre to acceptable tapas but these places are few. I don't like the concept of paying 3 euros for a coke with a slice of sausage or a piece of bread with salmon. No herbs or taste enhancers whatsoever are involved in the preparation of these things. And they're more likely to give you food poisoning than a full stomach. I HATE TAPAS.
Nor will I miss dinner time at 10 in the evening, there is really no need to starve for so long, eight o'clock will do just fine!

And then there's this "jejejejeje" and "jajajajaja" thing, (Spanish written version of "hahaha") seriously, nobody laughs like this.

I won't really miss the weather, since it was gravely disappointing, but I will miss nature. The difference with Belgium is here, once you leave a town, you enter the middle of nowhere, until you enter another town. In this middle of nowhere there are mountains, lakes, forests, parks, animals, and the smells I can't even describe, it's as close to the Amazon as it gets. I really didn't have to go far to get some peace and quiet.

As bad as I may feel about it, I will not miss Spain in crisis. Homeless people, beggars, charities, unemployment, strikes and protest marches on every block. I gave to others as much as I could but it breaks your heart to see this every day.

Since booking my ticket, countdown has started. It's almost impossible not to think of home, when classes are over, students are staying inside to study for finals, farewell parties are being organized...
Thinking about packing my bag is giving me great deal of stress (not to mention the exams I have waiting for me in Belgium). On top of that, I'm leaving on the exact day all the outdoor pools are opening in Alcala, fail.

But there are so many things I am looking forward to. 
A bed that fits my head and feet at the same time, access to my full closet ( OH WARDROBE HOW I'VE MISSED YOU), high heels (I know just how girly and superficial all this is starting to sound).
I have missed my weekly friday night Belgian fries, the perfect way to unwind after a tough week. The moment Belgian chocolate touches my lips, I will be a happy woman. I have missed full plate, three hour-long, you-can't-move-afterwards dinners. (Almost forgot Belgian pancakes with vanilla ice-cream and chocolate sauce.)
I am dreaming about touching a steering wheel again, the freedom to go wherever, whenever you want. I will be glad to go back to an economy that allows me to work, and not rely on my parents for every penny.

These last few weeks I've been going on the healthy path, trying to maintain my motivation to work out and eat a certain amount of fruits and vegetables a day. It wasn't too hard, if there is anything that is cheap in Spain, it's food. Most of the fruits and vegetables are local, so you're helping the environment. There was never a country more physically fit than Spain. Go to the nearest park and guaranteed there are dozens of people running or cycling: so many old ladies (when they chat like the geese in The Aristocats and they're still running faster than you, you know you have to step it up!); new moms pushing their stroller, whole families on kick scooters... Honestly, you still feel lazy after a 30 minute run.
I am hoping to continue this newfound health kick in Belgium once I get back. (Mainly because these Erasmus kilos are really not agreeing with me!)

I am looking forward to not go out as much anymore (the second semester was maybe a little too much of what the first wasn't), unfortunately too much of the Erasmus partying relied on heavy drinking, I'll be happy not to feel that pressure anymore.
It made me appreciate the low-key nights I have with my belgian friends who I also look forward to seeing again.

Even though communication with the home front was limited, it is where I am comfortable. Did I miss my parents? Of course not! I just mean it is kind of nice to have your mommy and daddy around, no?

A few things I will take home with me: the ability to use a washer. And really, what's all this talk about not mixing colors with whites, just throw everything in there! 
I am not sure if my Spanish actually improved, it is hard to remember what it was like when I first arrived. Sometimes I still have difficulty understanding people (but I've perfected the "sí sí, no no" response) and I didn't turn into a walking dictionary. I am however a lot more confident, and I finally feel I deserve being a third year spanish student.
I am currently applying for jobs in Spain, to see if I can spend the summer making money in the sun.

My experience in Spain is sort of a love/hate relationship, I could never live here, but it sure would be nice for a quick holiday, in Málaga of course.

I want to thank my readers for sticking with me, or joining when you did. I wrote this blog for all of you, with a lot of pleasure and enthusiasm!

Hasta luego!










Saturday, May 18, 2013

Last call for alcohol!

The countdown is getting closer and closer, even though I don't want it to.
My classes are over, I've handed in my last assignments and I have no exams. This means I have two more weeks to enjoy Spain (enjoy the rain and clouds more like it).
I will study for my Belgian exams a bit and still thinking about going to the beach for a day.
Also, my last two weeks of alcohol-binging, better make it memorable.

Last weekend my parents came down for a city trip in fast forward. The first day I showed them around Alcala, it was nice having people who actually wanted to visit things (I might have hated this as a child, now it is very appreciated) They were actually very impressed by Alcala, it made me feel slightly less depressed about living in this sardine can. We visited the birth house of Miguel Cervantes (that's the main reason why Alcala is even a little bit famous) and had some lunch.

Before they came to Spain I asked them what their objectives were: no shopping, enjoying the sun, visit some places. What we did: SHOP, shop, shop, visit place.
After Alcala, I took them to Madrid, they did some shopping and then I took them to a restaurant my Erasmus-wallet could never survive (that's what parents are for right?).
The next day we went the El Escorial, a royal palace outside of Madrid that was on my list of places to visit. A gorgeous place in the mountains, no waiting in lines, and 25°C. Perfect!






After El Escorial we had a lovely lunch outside and headed back to Madrid. In Madrid, we did some more shopping (and didn't find what we were looking for, resulting in me going shopping a few times more as my parents' personal shopper!) In the evening we travelled back to Alcala where we had some delicious nachos is my favorite Mexican restaurant. 

Sadly the next morning, it was already time to say goodbye. I must say, I really enjoyed this time with my invalid oldies. 

After a year of an inhumane amount of group assignments, an overload of cheap, disgusting tapas and horrible monsoon/ice age weather I am getting ready to go back to Belgium...

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Physical and emotional panorama

Oh man, I guess it's about time for an update, right?
The past few weeks have been calm but chaotic at the same time. I had quite a lot of school work outside of class, reading books, making translations, writing papers (it surprises me how in Belgium this hardly ever happens, for which I am very grateful!).

Since the easter trip I haven't gone anywhere special, except for: THE MOUNTAIN
Yes, you read I right, I finally made it!
I calculated that walking through the mountain park would be long enough so I took the bus to the official entrance instead of walking there. I have to mention I went by myself. Even though there were so many people I knew who wanted to go, I just had one of those days where a bit of meditation was necessary. Just like in Belgium (and I guess the rest of Europe, spring finally came to Alcala -spring on steroids better) Temperatures fluctuated between 30 and 35, which was awesooooooome.
I admit I was a little scared, I did not have a map (except for occasional roadsigns) and I had never been here before, so taking one turn or the other was always a guess. The park is absolutely gorgeous, there is lots of green, trees, agriculture and animals!
I was also scared of, losing my way, meeting wild animals.. and wild humans.
That was probably the reason I walked an average of 7 kms /hour. Needless to say, the next few days I stuck to "horizontal running".

Everything about it though, the smells, the colors, the heat, the road...  you can guess what it reminded me of!
















Today, I went again, this time taking some friends along.









Beside my mountain adventures, the weather has allowed us to relax by the river or in Madrid, getting some color. I also went for one jog, yes one, that's one more than none!

This week my Spanish classes ended with a bang, the exam. Results are yet to come in.

There is also a fair amount of partying happening every week, although I have to admit I'm growing out of it. Doing the same thing every week, three times a week, you get over it pretty quickly. 
I am really making an effort now to get more in touch with Spanish people (of one sex rather than the other of course), more updates on that later.


Also, the prince of Spain was in Alcala this week. BAM



Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Semana Santa travels

The unthinkable has happened. I have fallen in love with Málaga even more than I thought I could.
This easter holiday was absolutely brilliant. The first part of the week was a bit sad because some of my friends were not here but I managed to go jogging, and because I couldn't get out of bed because of soreness the next day, I got some homework done.

I decided to limit my travels to Málaga and Granada, I figured there would be enough time to visit the the other cities and it works out better if I spread my expenses. The bus ride to Málaga was dreadful, I usually enjoy travelling by bus but this time I was just too anxious to get there. When I arrived, my friends Nil and Didem were already there. We checked into our hostel and met with another friend Mertcan. (I will add that these were all Turkish people so I wouldn't be surprised if by the end of the schoolyear I can add another language to my repertoire.) (Also, in the presence of these people it was clear that I needed a tan ASAP).

Now, I cannot talk about my travels without giving some background information. In the south of Spain, easter holidays are extremely important. Compared to other countries they are significantly more religious and this is expressed during their Semana Santa.
During this week, the major cities in Andalucia will present their massive parades (for which they prepare all year). In these processions they carry giant altars, on these altars they display religious statues, mostly portrayals of Jesus, Maria and all of their devotions.

These altars are accompanied by thousands of people who walk the procession wearing robes (nazarenas) and pointy hats (think Ku Klux Klan). The color of their robes depends on the parade and the area of the city they're from. Tradition says the robes were worn by sinners who would walk to their salvation in anonimity. Each altar is also preceded by a marching band that plays the most dramatic music they could possibly play (think Phantom of the Opera).
Every single parade was made and carried out by a specific parrish or church in the city, and the altars are also stored there throughout the year. (Some of the Málaga altars are so big they won't fit through the church gate, they can weigh up to 5000kg).
In some parades there are also women dressed in black veils carrying rosaries (a traditional Roman Catholic costume for women). Nowadays children also participate in the parades, wearing mini versions of robes and suits.
These processions to me were absolutely breathtaking. From Monday to Friday, they would walk every day along a route that would take up to 8 hours - until 5 in the morning! Altough Sevilla is said to be the most famous Semana Santa, I thought Málaga was pretty impressive. For the sole difference that you can actualy see the men carrying the altar, in Granada and Sevilla, they are hidden underneath or there are wheels involved.
The city is flooded by milions of people, and when a parade is passing, you will not be able to cross the street for an hour. Considering that 3 parades are usually going on at the same time somewhere else, it's really difficult to find your way around the city.

At times, you can see the men under the altar crying in pain, trying to motivate each other and yelling. In the front and the back two guys ring a bell to keep the rhythm and guide whenever they have to make a turn. Every few kms, they put the altar down, and dozens of people offer them water and cookies. Meanwhile, the Dumbledores (people in robes) drop their candle wax all over the city (don't know its significance) while children try to catch it and make wax balls.
 
 The chest hair army






















 must see!

The first day in Málaga I was in complete wonder, the city had changed SO much since we last met two years ago. They gave the harbor a complete makeover, with a boardwalk that houses over 50 restaurants by the water with a great view of the castle and the city centre. Many squares and buildings have been renovated, and I did not want to be anywhere else. It is honestly such a beautiful city, with pavements and streets of marble, houses in every color of the rainbow and so many things to visit.

We first did a little shopping, and had a perfect dinner by the water. The temperature was mild. The next day I visited my old Spanish school to see my teachers, it was great to see them, as I do consider them the founding fathers of my Spanish skills. Later, me and my friends went to the beach. I had all my gear but the others weren't prepared so we didn't end up staying too long. 
Basically Málaga was a mixture of delicious food, watching processions and finally enjoying some sunshine. (my body could no longer bare my pale-facedness so it decided to turn tomatoe-red instead).

On Friday we took off to Granada. Of all the cities in Spain, this one I got recomended the most (mostly by Spanish people) but I must say, I was very disappointed.
The city wasn't nearly as pretty as Málaga, and not quite as structured. Since we only managed to get tickets to Generalife (gardens of the Arab castle) we went there, walked around, had dinner and drinks, went to a beautiful panorama spot to see the Alhambra at night and went to bed. The next day, I got up really early in order to wait in line at the Alhambra to see the castle (which I did and managed to get one of the final 400 tickets of the day) and indeed, this part is the most impressive of the whole Alhambra complex. I spend the rest of the day visiting the cathedral and tourist hot spots but couldn't feel the same excitement I had felt for Málaga. By the time evening came, I was happy to get on the bus and go back to Madrid.





 Prison Break



I can say with absolute certainty that Málaga and its processions are my top experience in Spain ever, so whatever's next better be damned impressive!

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