The unthinkable has happened. I have fallen in love with Málaga even more than I thought I could.
This easter holiday was absolutely brilliant. The first part of the week was a bit sad because some of my friends were not here but I managed to go jogging, and because I couldn't get out of bed because of soreness the next day, I got some homework done.
I decided to limit my travels to Málaga and Granada, I figured there would be enough time to visit the the other cities and it works out better if I spread my expenses. The bus ride to Málaga was dreadful, I usually enjoy travelling by bus but this time I was just too anxious to get there. When I arrived, my friends Nil and Didem were already there. We checked into our hostel and met with another friend Mertcan. (I will add that these were all Turkish people so I wouldn't be surprised if by the end of the schoolyear I can add another language to my repertoire.) (Also, in the presence of these people it was clear that I needed a tan ASAP).
Now, I cannot talk about my travels without giving some background information. In the south of Spain, easter holidays are extremely important. Compared to other countries they are significantly more religious and this is expressed during their Semana Santa.
During this week, the major cities in Andalucia will present their massive parades (for which they prepare all year). In these processions they carry giant altars, on these altars they display religious statues, mostly portrayals of Jesus, Maria and all of their devotions.
These altars are accompanied by thousands of people who walk the procession wearing robes (nazarenas) and pointy hats (think Ku Klux Klan). The color of their robes depends on the parade and the area of the city they're from. Tradition says the robes were worn by sinners who would walk to their salvation in anonimity. Each altar is also preceded by a marching band that plays the most dramatic music they could possibly play (think Phantom of the Opera).
Every single parade was made and carried out by a specific parrish or church in the city, and the altars are also stored there throughout the year. (Some of the Málaga altars are so big they won't fit through the church gate, they can weigh up to 5000kg).
In some parades there are also women dressed in black veils carrying rosaries (a traditional Roman Catholic costume for women). Nowadays children also participate in the parades, wearing mini versions of robes and suits.
These processions to me were absolutely breathtaking. From Monday to Friday, they would walk every day along a route that would take up to 8 hours - until 5 in the morning! Altough Sevilla is said to be the most famous Semana Santa, I thought Málaga was pretty impressive. For the sole difference that you can actualy see the men carrying the altar, in Granada and Sevilla, they are hidden underneath or there are wheels involved.
The city is flooded by milions of people, and when a parade is passing, you will not be able to cross the street for an hour. Considering that 3 parades are usually going on at the same time somewhere else, it's really difficult to find your way around the city.
At times, you can see the men under the altar crying in pain, trying to motivate each other and yelling. In the front and the back two guys ring a bell to keep the rhythm and guide whenever they have to make a turn. Every few kms, they put the altar down, and dozens of people offer them water and cookies. Meanwhile, the Dumbledores (people in robes) drop their candle wax all over the city (don't know its significance) while children try to catch it and make wax balls.
The chest hair army
must see!
The first day in Málaga I was in complete wonder, the city had changed SO much since we last met two years ago. They gave the harbor a complete makeover, with a boardwalk that houses over 50 restaurants by the water with a great view of the castle and the city centre. Many squares and buildings have been renovated, and I did not want to be anywhere else. It is honestly such a beautiful city, with pavements and streets of marble, houses in every color of the rainbow and so many things to visit.
We first did a little shopping, and had a perfect dinner by the water. The temperature was mild. The next day I visited my old Spanish school to see my teachers, it was great to see them, as I do consider them the founding fathers of my Spanish skills. Later, me and my friends went to the beach. I had all my gear but the others weren't prepared so we didn't end up staying too long.
Basically Málaga was a mixture of delicious food, watching processions and finally enjoying some sunshine. (my body could no longer bare my pale-facedness so it decided to turn tomatoe-red instead).
On Friday we took off to Granada. Of all the cities in Spain, this one I got recomended the most (mostly by Spanish people) but I must say, I was very disappointed.
The city wasn't nearly as pretty as Málaga, and not quite as structured. Since we only managed to get tickets to Generalife (gardens of the Arab castle) we went there, walked around, had dinner and drinks, went to a beautiful panorama spot to see the Alhambra at night and went to bed. The next day, I got up really early in order to wait in line at the Alhambra to see the castle (which I did and managed to get one of the final 400 tickets of the day) and indeed, this part is the most impressive of the whole Alhambra complex. I spend the rest of the day visiting the cathedral and tourist hot spots but couldn't feel the same excitement I had felt for Málaga. By the time evening came, I was happy to get on the bus and go back to Madrid.
Prison Break
I can say with absolute certainty that Málaga and its processions are my top experience in Spain ever, so whatever's next better be damned impressive!
